Hotels We Love: Hotel L’Particular, Arles France

This is one of the largest historic private mansions in the centre of Arles, and was once owned by the Baron de Chartrouse. After being remodeled by Brigitte Pagés de L’Oliveira, it’s now an intimate, exclusive hotel with 13 stylish all-white rooms, a subterranean spa and a delightful courtyard.
Located in the Roquette district of southern France, a neighborhood originally home to sailors and sea merchants, it’s a 10-minute walk to the Roman amphitheater, the river, and the Foundation Vincent Van Gogh. The nearest airports are Nîmes (19 miles) and Marseille (40 miles).
This 19th-century aristocratic mansion exudes an air of posh. Enormous black doors with beribboned knockers open from the narrow street onto a courtyard shaded by 200 year-old plantain trees and dotted with lemon trees, moss-covered statuary and neatly clipped box hedges. The long, limestone pool is overlooked by the neo-classical façade with its tall French windows framed by the palest blue shutters.
On the ground floor elegant lounges, a bar and a garden breakfast room are flooded with light, their all-white décor accented by antique Aubusson carpets, gilt-framed mirrors, and sympathetic contemporary art by Mies van der Rohe. It’s a triumph of restrained simplicity that lets the character of the house speak for itself.
Guests can spend the whole day lounging by the heated pool. Evening aperitifs in the garden are also much in demand when candle lanterns ramp up the romance. There’s no restaurant, but light plates can be prepared on request and with so many good restaurants nearby its hardly necessary.
Massages or a steamy hammam, however, in the vaulted cellars are a welcome treat after a day pounding the pavements in the historic center. Service is exemplary.

Choice period details include romantic bed canopies, gilt bergère chairs, stitched matelassé coverlets and monochrome Zuber wallpapers. Bathrooms, with their huge mirrors, walk-in showers and claw-foot or marble tubs, complete the spoiling picture.

Breakfast is gorgeous. In summer, it is served out in the garden at tables dressed in white linen and monogrammed napkins. Tea and coffee come in fine china cups and an enormous buffet tempts with freshly baked baguettes, croissants, pains au chocolat, hams and cheese, as well as omelettes and eggs.

There’s no restaurant, but the hotel offers excellent local recommendations and staff will happily make reservations. Light snacks and plates of charcuterie and cheese can also be ordered throughout the day at the bar.

Rooms from $375 per night. Always book direct here.